WWD FRIDAY: Cosmetics Brand Hourglass Adds Artistic Director

With a new artistic director and a packed lineup of new products, Hourglass Cosmetics is setting its course for the future.

Gina Brooke, who previously served as artistic director of Shu Uemura (which, as reported, is shuttering its U.S. prestige distribution), has taken on the same role at Hourglass Cosmetics. As artistic director, Brooke will consult on product development, lead photo shoots and make appearances on behalf of Hourglass Cosmetics.

“Gina is a leader in the beauty industry and I strongly believe that our partnership will bring an increased visibility to Hourglass,” said Carisa Janes, founder and chief executive officer of Hourglass Cosmetics. Janes was also a member of the original team which created Urban Decay, and also worked on the development of cosmetics lines from Body & Soul and Sugar. “Additionally, I’m looking forward to the valuable perspective and insight she will provide to help further grow our brand.”

Hourglass has grown from one door in 2004 — Barneys New York — to its current distribution of 190 U.S. specialty store doors, including Sephora, which the line entered in 2007. The brand is also in 44 international doors. “I have always loved Hourglass because of its outstanding complexion products,” said Brooke. “They offer full coverage, yet give such a natural and flawless appearance. The brand truly defines luxury and was made with today’s modern woman in mind. I’m elated to be working with Hourglass and can’t wait to share its unique attributes with a larger audience, along with the exciting new developments that are yet to come.”

Hourglass will add Illume Creme to Powder Bronzer Duo in May. Janes noted that the product, which will retail for $40, contains vitamins A and E for moisturizing and antioxidant benefits and is fragrance, oil, wax and paraben-free. It is packaged in a compact with a 360-degree swiveling mirror.

In August, the brand will add Femme Rouge Velvet Crème Lipstick in 12 shades, each $30, as well as Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara in Onyx, $28.

Hourglass has also just launched Prodigy Hydrating Lip Gloss, a high-shine gloss in a streamlined square tube. Available in six shades, each $26, the gloss is also paraben, sulfate, phthalate and fragrance-free.

While executives declined to discuss sales projections, industry sources estimated the new Hourglass additions together could do $5 million to $7 million at retail in their first year on counter.

“Prodigy Hydrating Lipgloss sales are outperforming our initial projections and client feedback has been extremely positive,” said Laurette Puhlmann, merchant for Sephora’s color cosmetics business. “The hydrating, water-resistant formula, extensive color selection and shine are most often cited as their favorite attributes.” She declined to give specifics on sales figures.

Puhlmann noted Sephora began stocking the brand because “Hourglass offers the Sephora client a clear point of difference, with advanced ingredient technology in the most luxurious formulations.”

Puhlmann noted that the brand does well for Sephora — “It is one of our most successful new brand launches, and continues to perform above expectations,” she said. It is carried in the retailer’s doors in the U.S., Canada and Singapore. “We like to say that with Hourglass, style and substance can coexist,” she continued. “The brand is defined by its luxurious formulas, cutting-edge technology and chic packaging.”

“One of the key products that typifies the brand’s innovation is the Veil Fluid Makeup Oil Free SPF 15. It contains Matryxil, an active peptide that helps prevent and treat wrinkles without the irritating or negative side effects.”